Retinol
Rating:
BEST
Categories:
Skin-Restoring , Antioxidants , Vitamins
Name for the entire vitamin A molecule. Retinol is a powerhouse ingredient that has value for skin on several fronts: It’s a skin-restoring, wrinkle-smoothing, firming ingredient and an antioxidant, allowing it to improve a variety of skin concerns, most related to visible signs of aging.
Packaging is a key issue, so any container that lets in air (like jar packaging) or sunlight (clear containers) just won’t cut it. Lots of retinol products come in unacceptable packaging; these should be avoided because the retinol will most likely be (or quickly become) ineffective. Look for opaque, airless, or air-restrictive packaging.
Many consumers are concerned about the percentage of retinol in anti-aging products such as serums or moisturizers. Although the percentage can make a difference (especially if it’s too low), it’s not helpful in understanding how a retinol product will benefit your skin. Far more important is the delivery system, packaging, and the other ingredients present with the retinol.
Using a product with a range of anti-aging ingredients plus retinol is far more valuable for skin than using a product with only a supposedly high percentage of retinol. Skin needs far more than any one ingredient can provide, however great that one ingredient may be. See our article on this topic for detailed information.
There are several myths about using retinol with other anti-aging ingredients or products, such as those with vitamin C or exfoliants like glycolic acid. See our article on this topic to learn what the research has shown to be true.
Niacinamide
Rating:
BEST
Categories:
Antioxidants , Vitamins , Skin-Soothing , Skin-Restoring
Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinic acid, niacinamide is a very effective skin-restoring ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging skin. Among these benefits is the ability to visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness, and a weakened skin surface. Niacinamide can also reduce the damage environmental attack can cause, and is stable in the presence of heat and light.
Vitamin C
Rating:
BEST
Categories:
Antioxidants , Vitamins
Vitamin C is one of the most well-researched and beneficial vitamins you can apply topically. Ongoing use has been shown to improve the look of multiple signs of aging, brighten an uneven skin tone, as well as provide skin-restoring and soothing benefits.
Vitamin C comes in many forms, with ascorbic acid being the most well-researched for its efficacy. Learn more about ascorbic acid’s benefits here.
Other forms of vitamin C you will see included in skincare products include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucosamine, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. In any form, vitamin C provides potent antioxidant protection, shielding skin from damaging environmental stressors.
Note: All antioxidants, including vitamin C, are vulnerable to destabilizing when exposed to air and light. That means if you want to reap the reward of your antioxidant-enriched treatments, only choose those that are packaged in opaque tubes, air-restrictive bottles, or pumps that help keep their ingredients stable.
Lactic acid
Rating:
BEST
Categories:
Exfoliant
Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) extracted from milk, although most forms used in cosmetics are synthetic because that form is easier to formulate with and stabilize. In a pH-correct formula, lactic acid exfoliates cells on the surface of skin by breaking down the material that holds dead skin together. It may cause sensitivity, although this isn’t common. Lactic acid also has water-binding properties and, like glycolic acid (another AHA), may help brighten an uneven skin tone.
Azelaic acid
Rating:
BEST
Component of grains such as wheat, rye, and barley, azelaic acid is effective for a number of sensitive skin concerns when applied topically, including skin brightening.
Azelaic acid is also an antioxidant, and has pronounced skin-soothing effects.
Hyaluronic acid
Rating:
BEST
Categories:
Skin-Replenishing , Skin-Restoring
Component of skin tissue. Synthetic variations are used in skincare products to function as a superior skin-replenishing ingredient. Hyaluronic acid has restorative abilities and can boost skin’s moisture content, soothe, and defend against moisture loss.
Rose hip oil
Rating:
GOOD
Categories:
Emollients , Antioxidants , Plant Extracts
Non-fragrant emollient plant oil that has antioxidant properties and is a rich source of skin-beneficial fatty acids.
Argan oil
Rating:
BEST
Categories:
Emollients , Plant Extracts , Antioxidants
Non-fragrant plant oil expressed from the kernels of argan trees. Argan oil contains several beneficial lipids and fatty acids for skin, including oleic acid, palmitic acid, and, especially, linoleic acid. It is also a good source of antioxidant vitamin E (tocopherol) and, like several other plant oils, a source of other antioxidant compounds.
Despite the hype, argan oil isn’t a miraculous ingredient by any stretch of the imagination. It’s merely a good, emollient, non-fragrant plant oil. It’s a consideration if skin or hair is dry to very dry, but is not necessarily any better than many other non-fragrant plant oils used in cosmetics. As with any plant oil, those with oily skin should think twice before applying it full strength as doing so will make skin look and feel greasy.
Sclerocarya birrea (Marula oil)
Rating:
BEST
Categories:
Skin-Replenishing , Emollients
More commonly known as marula oil, Sclerocarya birrea oil is a non-fragrant plant oil that's a rich source of fatty acids for skin, including palmitic and stearic acids.
Matrixyl 3000
Matrixyl er ikke så gennemforsket som de andre, og nogen mener ikke det er særlig virksomt, mens andre mener det kan sammenlignes med retinol. Generelt kan siges at:
Matrixyl uses a specific peptide called palmitoyl-pentapeptide 3. That peptide purportedly stimulates collagen synthesis and skin repair, making it a powerful long-term aging treatment.
Matrixyl 3000 claims to work using two new peptides that are not related to palmitoyl-pentapeptide 3 in any way.
The two new peptides are palmitoyl-tripeptide and palmitoyl-oligopeptide. The creators of the Matrixyl 3000 formula claim these ingredients work synergistically to mimic the appearance of broken down collagen.
When your body notices that there’s broken down collagen in the skin, it responds by making more collagen along with elastin.
Arbutin
Rating:
BEST
Categories:
Plant Extracts
Arbutin may be made synthetically or derived from bearberry (uva-ursi) plant or other plants and exhibits antioxidant activity. Most notably, arbutin has an increasing amount of research attesting to its effectiveness for brightening an uneven skin tone. Research has shown the synthetic version, chemically known as deoxyarbutin, is more effective for brightening than the natural derivative.
Because arbutin works by breaking down into hydroquinone, it also has merit for improving the appearance of dark spots due to unprotected sun exposure or bodily changes such as can occur during pregnancy or due to other factors. It can be considered an alternative to hydroquinone for those whose skin may be unable to tolerate this lightening ingredient in much the same way that some people’s skin can tolerate cosmetic retinol but not retinoids from the pharmacy.
Caffeine
Rating:
AVERAGE
Categories:
Antioxidants , Plant Extracts
Caffeine is the chief stimulant in beverages such as coffee and tea. It’s often included in skincare products with claims that it will improve the look of cellulite or puffy eyes. Unfortunately, research into caffeine’s effects in this regard are mixed. Caffeine’s popularity in products related to cellulite is due to its distant relationship to aminophylline (an ingredient once thought to improve the look of cellulite), which is a modified form of theophylline, and caffeine contains theophylline.
Applied to skin, caffeine may have soothing and antioxidant properties, especially when skin is exposed to UV light. It can penetrate skin and has a constricting effect, which can help improve the look of redness but also may be sensitizing.
When it comes to puffy eyes, there is no research indicating caffeine can have any benefit; in fact, research has shown caffeine has an inhibitory action on a key protein in skin that helps it look younger. Truly, it’s a mix of pros and cons for skin, though lower amounts (less than 1%) in skincare products probably don’t present much, if any, risk.